The Wine Mindset Score: 99/100
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Producer: Champagne Ulysse Collin
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Winemaker: Olivier Collin
Wine Region
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Champagne
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Côteaux du Petit Morin, Congy
Plot size: 0.63 hectares
Grape: Chardonnay
Vintage: NV
Disgorgement: February 2024
Dosage: 2.4 g/L
Color: White
Drink Window: 2026–2040
Description
It begins with quiet confidence—no fireworks, just a steady hand. Ulysse Collin’s Les Enfers Blanc de Blancs (base 2017) reflects six years of patience on the lees, and it shows. The first aromas are clear and composed: warm toast, almond, a trace of smoke. Nothing loud, but everything in place.
On the palate, the wine is firm and focused. The acidity drives forward, clean and precise, while a mineral core holds it steady. There’s depth without heaviness, and a chalky texture that carries through to a long, gently salty finish.
This cuvée marks a turning point. Collin seems to have found the rhythm that suits this site—east-facing, just above Congy—and the result is a wine that feels complete without needing to explain itself. A quiet benchmark, set with conviction.
With Les Enfers, Collin doesn’t just offer a Champagne—he offers a question: what if time isn’t the enemy of freshness, but its architect?
Terroir
The Côteaux du Petit Morin is a lesser-known yet increasingly celebrated subregion within France’s Champagne appellation. Situated between the Côte des Blancs and the Sézannais, this area encompasses approximately 900 hectares of vineyards spread across 18 villages, including Congy, Coizard-Joches, and Beaunay. The region is characterized by its diverse terroir, featuring a mix of chalk, clay, and flint soils, which contribute to the unique profiles of its Champagnes.
Historically, the Côteaux du Petit Morin has been dominated by Pinot Meunier, accounting for about 46.9% of plantings, followed by Chardonnay at 40.5%, and Pinot Noir at 12.6% . However, recent trends show a growing emphasis on Chardonnay, particularly in villages like Broussy-le-Grand and Courjeonnet, where it comprises over 50% of the vineyards. This shift reflects a broader movement towards highlighting the region’s potential for producing high-quality, terroir-driven Champagnes.
Winemaker
Olivier Collin is the visionary behind Champagne Ulysse Collin, a domaine that has redefined the potential of single-parcel grower Champagne. Since reclaiming his family’s vineyards in the early 2000s, Collin has pursued a meticulous, terroir-driven approach, vinifying each plot separately and aging extensively on lees. With a background in law and a formative internship at Selosse, he combines analytical precision with bold experimentation. His Champagnes—marked by low dosage, barrel fermentation, and intense minerality—are now regarded among the most original and sought-after expressions of the Champagne.